Behind the Glass: The Materials I Choose for My Mosaic Art
When people look at one of my mosaics, they usually notice the image first—a beloved dog, a curious cat, a celestial face, or a garden filled with flowers and vines. What they don't always see is the careful thought that goes into the materials beneath the surface.
Every material I use has been chosen for a reason.
Over the years, I've experimented with many different materials. Some made the work easier. Others made it less expensive. But only a select few truly made the finished artwork better.
Today, every material in my studio has earned its place. Whether I'm creating a custom pet portrait mosaic, a garden memorial, or one of my Celestial Faces sculptures, every choice is guided by one simple question:
What material will best tell this story?
Why I Choose Hand-Cut Stained Glass and Art Glass
People often ask why I choose hand-cut stained glass and specialty art glass instead of ceramic tile—or even pre-cut mosaic pieces.
The answer is simple.
Hand-cut glass gives me complete artistic freedom.
Every piece is individually selected, shaped, and cut to fit the design. Rather than forcing the artwork to conform to manufactured shapes, I can create exactly the line, curve, angle, or texture the composition calls for.
Glass also lets me paint with light.
Tile is wonderful for many styles of mosaic art, especially bold graphic and architectural work. But for the expressive mosaics I create, stained glass and specialty art glass offer possibilities that tile simply can't.
Glass allows subtle shifts in color, transparency, texture, and reflectivity. As the light changes throughout the day, the artwork changes with it.
Black fur isn't really black.
White fur isn't really white.
Water shimmers.
Leaves glow.
Sunsets become richer.
The mosaic feels alive.
Why I choose hand-cut stained glass and art glass:
Every piece is individually selected and hand cut.
Complete artistic freedom—I'm never limited by manufactured shapes.
Easier to create organic curves and expressive forms.
Beautiful range of colors, textures, and transparencies.
Subtle value changes create a more painterly effect.
Reflects and catches light beautifully.
Adds sparkle, depth, and movement.
The tradeoff:
Every piece of glass must be individually selected, hand cut, shaped, and fitted. It's a more time-consuming process, but it gives me complete creative freedom and allows me to create subtle transitions, expressive forms, and finished mosaics that simply couldn't be achieved with pre-cut pieces.
Two Types of Clay—Because One Doesn't Do Everything
Glass may be my primary medium, but it's not the whole story.
Many of my mosaics also incorporate hand-sculpted elements that add depth, texture, and personality—details that simply can't be achieved with glass alone.
To create those elements, I work with two very different kinds of clay.
High-Fired Stoneware Clay
When I want a sculptural element with a smooth, refined, almost glass-like surface, I turn to high-fired stoneware clay. You'll find it in my Celestial Faces collection, as well as many of the sculptural elements I create.
Why I love it:
Beautiful smooth, glass-like surface after firing.
Extremely durable.
Wonderful possibilities with glazes.
Perfect for sculptural focal points.
The tradeoff:
Ceramics always retain an element of surprise. Every firing is a collaboration with the kiln. Glazes can vary, colors shift, and textures sometimes develop in unexpected ways. I love that sense of discovery, but it also means I use fired clay where those happy surprises can enhance the artwork rather than compromise it.
Epoxy Clay
Epoxy clay is entirely different.
Instead of firing in a kiln, it cures at room temperature and bonds exceptionally well to a variety of surfaces. It allows me to continue sculpting even after much of the artwork has already been assembled.
It's my material of choice for sculpted noses on my custom pet portrait mosaics, flower petals, leaves, tiny bees, whisker pads, and many other dimensional details.
Why I love it:
Can be added after the main artwork is completed.
Extremely durable.
Excellent weather resistance.
Perfect for fine sculptural details.
Gives me flexibility throughout the creative process.
The tradeoff:
It doesn't develop the same smooth ceramic surface or glazed finish that fired clay can achieve.
Having both materials available allows me to choose the one that's best suited for each piece.
Choosing the Right Foundation
What's underneath a mosaic is just as important as what's on the surface.
Waterproof Foam Core
For many of my wall mosaics, I build on waterproof foam core.
It's remarkably lightweight while remaining rigid and durable. Another advantage is flexibility—I can cut it into virtually any size or shape, giving me complete freedom when designing custom artwork.
Outdoor wall hangings are often built on waterproof foam core, which is lightweight, durable, and well suited for covered outdoor locations such as porches, patios, and entryways.
Cement Pavers
For portrait stones, memorial stones, and other artwork designed to become part of the landscape, I build on cement pavers.
Concrete is made for the outdoors. It stands up beautifully to rain, sprinklers, changing temperatures, and years of weather.
It's considerably heavier than foam core, but that's exactly what makes it such an excellent choice for artwork that's meant to stay securely in a garden or along a pathway.
Wood
Wood is another material I use—but only when it's the right choice.
Some of my indoor wall pieces, including my Celestial Faces collection, incorporate wooden bases as part of their construction. Wood is strong, relatively lightweight, and easy to cut into custom shapes, making it an excellent foundation for indoor wall art.
For outdoor work, I choose the substrate based on how the artwork will be displayed. Garden and pathway pieces are built on cement pavers, while outdoor wall hangings are often created on waterproof foam core.
Choosing the right foundation is every bit as important as choosing the right glass.
The Unsung Hero: Grout
Grout does much more than fill the spaces between pieces of glass.
It influences the finished appearance of the entire mosaic.
Most of my work uses sanded grout because it provides greater strength, resists shrinkage, and performs beautifully with the wider grout lines that are characteristic of my style.
Unsanded grout has its place as well. It's smoother and works well for very narrow grout lines or delicate surfaces that might be scratched by sanded grout.
The color matters, too.
Sometimes grout quietly blends into the design.
Other times it becomes an active part of the composition, subtly changing the mood and helping unify the entire piece.
Every Material Helps Tell the Story
People sometimes think creating mosaic art is all about inspiration.
In reality, it's also about hundreds of thoughtful decisions.
The glass.
The clay.
The foundation.
The grout.
Each material contributes something unique.
Hand-cut stained glass captures light in ways tile never can. Fired stoneware clay brings elegance and a willingness to embrace the unexpected. Epoxy clay offers flexibility and remarkable durability. Waterproof foam core provides lightweight strength for wall art. Cement pavers stand up beautifully to the elements. Wood offers warmth, strength, and design flexibility for indoor work.
There isn't one perfect material.
There is only the perfect material for the job.
Choosing those materials thoughtfully is just as much a part of my creative process as designing the artwork itself. While many of those decisions remain hidden beneath the finished mosaic, they're part of what allows each piece to tell its story beautifully—for years to come.
